Ground Preparation for Artificial Grass

Measuring & Outline:

Measure the width and length of each area by using irrigation flags or landscape stakes. Then use spray paint or chalk to mark your turf rolls. Note the direction you have decided to lay the turf when you did your planning.

Measuring

Turf Direction

Turf Direction

Removing Topsoil:

Utilizing a sod cutter, hoe or shovel to cut grass, sod or any other unwanted vegetation from your marked areas will make it easy to roll up and remove sod or any other topsoil that is currently in your project area. Also remove any large rocks or roots that are unwanted. The typical depth of a sod cutter is set at 1-2 inches. However, some colder regions of the country may need to excavate up to 4 inches due to the need for more base material to address cold weather ground expansion and contraction. Do not forget to leave a 6″ radius around trees, bushes or any shrubs.

Sod Cutter Removal

Removal

Rough Grading:

With a landscape rake, rough grade your artificial grass installation application area. Then use a garden hose to lightly water the area and then compact the area with a plate compactor or a heavy drum roller. Keep making passes over the project area until you have ensured that your compaction is acceptable. 95% compaction is recommended.

Rough Grading

Rough Grading

Rough Grading

WARNING: Make sure your area maintains at least a 1% grade to allow for proper drainage.

Weed Killer:

It is a good idea, once the ground is completely cleared, to apply a weed killer and a grass blocker spray to the area. You need to ensure that any vegetation will not grow under the turf area in the future. You may also use a weed barrier material by cutting it to size and use sod staples to hold it in place.

Edging Installation:

Once the area has been cleared and the weed killer is applied, it is time to install your selected edging.

Base Type:

The purpose of base material is simple; it is your drainage for the artificial turf system, while providing a solid ground to walk on. The base allows the turf to drain up to 12 inches of water per hour in most cases. The most current feedback we have from contractors nationwide is to use a 3/4″ down to 1/4″ crushed drain rock as your primary base and then to use the fines (Smaller Parts) as a top coat that can help with drainage and the way the turf may feel under the feet. These rocks can be found at your local rock yards and may have several different names. You want to avoid using a rounded rock, like some pea gravels, as they will not compact well and are too rounded. Some common names for the base rock material are Crushed Stone, Breeze Rock, Chat, Decomposed Granite (DG), crusher fine gravel, Class 2 Aggregate or Class 2 Road base.

3/4″ to 1/4″
Primary Base
Drain Rock

3/4″ to 1/4″
Primary Base
Drain Rock

3/4″ to 1/4″
Primary Base
Drain Rock

Crusher Fine
Top Coat
Base

Crusher Fine
Top Coat
Base

Crusher Fine
Top Coat
Base

3/4″ Primary
Base Drain
Rock

Base Depth:

Although sub-base heights may vary from project to project, the standard recommended base is 4″ below finish grade for outdoor projects. However, because of different weather from region to region, we recommend that for arid climates the sub-base may be as low as two (2″) inches and the sub-base for climates with high water tables or rainfall may have a base up to six (6″) inches. Additionally, in colder climates the ground will often expand and contract with freezing ground, it will be important to have a minimum of a 4″ base for these applications.

Base Application:

Now that you know what base you are using and the depth is established, you can place your order for your sub-base rock based on the following formula; 1 TON (2,000 LBS) of rock base per 100 Square Feet of artificial turf will give you a 3″ sub-base. Spread the sub-base material around the area and then even the sub-base using the back of a bow rake or similar yard tool.

Grading:

Using a sod roller or plate compactor type tool, you will tightly compact the sub-base up to 95%. The goal is to have the sub-base as smooth as possible, yet solid when walked upon. Do not accept a base that is compacted less than 85%. In order to achieve this compaction you may have to wet the area, without too much saturation, re-compact several times until level and at the recommended grade of 1%.This should allow water runoff the proper drainage. Basically, you can contour the areas to meet your drainage requirements. For those areas with depressions, simply add a small amount of screening or stone dust material until compacted level. However you must not use a compactor for these areas with screenings but must compact it with a roller. All bumps and holes should be eliminated from your sub-base, best as you can, because the undulation on the surface will be visible once the turf is applied. This whole process will allow you to get the exact finish level of the artificial grass installation. You may have to repeat the process a few times, so please allow sub-base to dry then check for any inconsistencies and make adjustments to the areas with fines or screenings. Repeat until satisfied, however, the base does not have to be absolutely perfect to have a successful synthetic grass installation. The final base should be 1.5″ below the top of your border. Use the smooth side of a trowel to compact any sub-base build up around any corners or edges.

Grading

Grading

Grading

WARNING: To avoid creating ridges in the sub-base, avoid making sharp turns with the plate compactor. Additionally, try not to walk on the surface once you have it leveled and prepared, if so you are advised to walk flat-footed. Additionally, make sure that all heavy machinery does not drive over the newly prepared sub-base.